The Science Behind Shaving

Why are there so many blades? What exactly does shaving cream do? And how can I actually get the perfect shave? Those are some questions I hope to answer with today’s post in partnership with Gillette, looking at the science of shaving. And yes, science is involved!

I recently had the opportunity to have an email convo with one of Gillette’s shaving experts, Kristina Vanoosthuyze, who heads up the brand’s R&D science communications from her office in Redding, UK. Thanks to her help, I finally got answers to some of the things I’ve been wondering about for years – and here’s a glimpse of exactly that!

1. BEFORE THE SHAVE

1.1. What’s important to think about before you shave, and how do you prep the skin?

Expert: “It is very important to allow water to penetrate into the hair for a comfortable shave because dry hair is difficult to cut. In fact, dry hair can have the strength of copper wire. When hair absorbs water, it swells, becomes softer and easier to cut. So, men should shave after the shower and not the other way around. The warm water and steam of the shower will help hydrate the beard hairs and make them easier to cut. Better still is to wash the face and neck with a mild cleanser before the shave. This will not only soften the hairs, but the rubbing action of the hand may help to release trapped, ingrown or low lying hairs.”

1.2. What’s the differentiating factor with different shave creams, and is there any specific way you should apply it?

Expert: “It is indeed also important to use plenty of shave prep.  This provides a protective anti-friction layer and improves razor glide for a smoother, more comfortable shaving experience. The most popular forms are “aerosol preps” (which come in an aerosol can). Men like them because they easily form a rich, thick lather which gives him confidence he’ll have the protection he needs, is easy to precisely apply on the area where he wants protection and stays in place on the face.

There are 2 forms of aerosol preps which are equally popular: 1. shave gels and 2. shave foams. Some men prefer shave gels which typically have a higher level of “lubricating ingredients” and generate a thick, dense lather. Some men prefer shave foams, which give a light, airy lather that easily rinses away.

In this video there is a little bit more detail on the benefits of a shave prep and the difference between foam and gel.”

2. DURING THE SHAVE

2.1. How do you figure out the best direction to shave your beard to avoid irritation? Do you always go with the grain or against the grain? Or does it even matter?

Expert: “Most guys find that using light strokes and first shaving in the direction of the hair growth and then following up with re-strokes against the grain provides the closest, smoothest shave with good skin comfort. However, men`s facial hair tends to grow in different directions (especially in the neck area), so even if a man shaves with the grain (in the direction of the hair growth), some hairs will still unknowingly be cut against the grain.”

2.2. How many blades is enough/ too many? My barber had mentioned in the past that for my sensitive skin one might be enough?

Expert: “Our research shows that the majority of men will achieve the best quality shave with our top of the range razors with 5 blades versus our razors with less blades.

Here is a bit more explanation:

The benefits of multi-blade razors were discovered in the late 1960s. Gillette discovered that adding more blades provides a closer, longer lasting shave.

Here is how it works:  When cutting a hair using a multi-blade razor, the hair undergoes a process called “hysteresis”, in which the first blade extends the hair out of the hair follicle and allows the subsequent blade to cut further down the hair before it has fully retracted back into the follicle. This provides a closer, longer-lasting shave. As more blades are added to the razor, the probability of this process is increased. 

Adding more blades will also improve the comfort of the shave provided the blades are placed at the right distance from each other.

Here is how it works: The force from the hand on the handle causes the skin to bulge (or ripple) between the blades. This can lead to more friction between skin and blades or can cause nicks and cuts. By having more blades and moving the blades closer together, that pressure will be more evenly distributed, so a more uniform stress is placed on the skin, leading to a safer, more comfortable shave. So, one of the breakthroughs in the development of Fusion5 (Gillette`s 5-blade technology) was the invention of placing the 5 blades closer together than MACH3 razor, resulting in a closer, more comfortable shave versus MACH3.

Finally, it is worth noting that razor design has undergone a huge evolution in the last decades and it is a widespread myth and oversimplification that this was simply a matter of adding more blades. In our 110+ year history, we only ever added blades 3 times: launch of first 2-bladed razor in 1971(Gillette TRACII), first 3-bladed razor in 1998 (MACH3) and in 2005 we launched Fusion: the first razor with 5 blades at the front and 1 at the back.”

Photography by Bryant Littrean in Partnership w/ Gillette

3. AFTER THE SHAVE

What are the different benefits of balms/creams/liquid after shave options?

Expert: “The aging process and years of exposure to external factors such as sun, smoking, drying indoor and weather conditions, can lead to dry skin problems. Moreover, skin can feel irritated, tight, hot and uncomfortable after the shave. Regular use of a moisturizing after-shave product will help to re-hydrate the skin, calm and comfort the skin and leave it feeling smooth and comfortable.

Some men prefer to use a soothing after-shave product that is thinner, more liquid (like a balm), other men prefer a product that is a bit thicker (like a cream). Whatever the preference, men prefer products which are light, easily absorbed and leave no greasy residue (Because male facial skin is typically oilier then female skin).”

I hope you guys got a little more insight into the world of shaving, I know she changed my perception of a few things (for example, shaving after the shower seems ground-breaking for my routine). If you have any more questions make sure to leave a comment down below or check out Gillette’s website to learn more, and of course to check out the Gillette products in particular to make sure you get your perfect shave, tools and knowledge provided 😉

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